Atmel AVR Microcontroller discussion group.
[AVR club] which is the good controller to start - Mounesh Sutar - Jun 7 3:57:47 2008
Hi All,
i need a help
i am new to work with microcontrollers, will you tell me, which would be
good controller to start to learn and apply the same on some small projects.
your help would appreciated.
On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 5:31 PM, nandinikrishna_n
wrote:
> --- In a...@yahoogroups.com ,
> "doctor_adnan2003"
> wrote:
> >
> > I am working on developing a protocol stack and i require an easily
> > available software for compiling my code and generatinh the hex files
> > actually this is my first time working on the avr recently i used
> atmel
> > controllers only and i used KEIL
> > can u tell about any such software for ATmega32?
> > There is code version AVR C compiler for debugging install AVR studio.
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )
Re: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start - Kishor Soni - Jun 7 8:25:25 2008
Hi,
Which type of work do you want to do ?
Kishor Soni
--- On Sat, 6/7/08, Mounesh Sutar <s...@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Mounesh Sutar <s...@gmail.com>
Subject: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start
To: a...@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 7, 2008, 12:17 PM
Hi All,
i need a help
i am new to work with microcontrollers, will you tell me, which would be
good controller to start to learn and apply the same on some small projects.
your help would appreciated.
On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 5:31 PM, nandinikrishna_ n <n.nandini08@ gmail.com>
wrote:
> --- In avrclub@yahoogroups .com <avrclub%40yahoogro ups.com>,
> "doctor_adnan2003"
> <doctor_adnan2003@ ...> wrote:
> >
> > I am working on developing a protocol stack and i require an easily
> > available software for compiling my code and generatinh the hex files
> > actually this is my first time working on the avr recently i used
> atmel
> > controllers only and i used KEIL
> > can u tell about any such software for ATmega32?
> >
>
> There is code version AVR C compiler for debugging install AVR studio.
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )
Re: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start - Zack Widup - Jun 7 9:56:20 2008
Probably something like an 8515 or ATMega8. The Mega8 was the one I
learned AVR programming with.
I'd recommend that you get an STK-500 programming board, too. I think
everyone makes the mistake with the fuse bits on AVR's at first and you
need the high-voltage programmng capability to set it right after you've
done that.
Zack
On Sat, 7 Jun 2008, Mounesh Sutar wrote:
> Hi All,
> i need a help
> i am new to work with microcontrollers, will you tell me, which would be
> good controller to start to learn and apply the same on some small projects.
> your help would appreciated.
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )
Re: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start - Rick - Jun 7 23:48:47 2008
--- In a...@yahoogroups.com, Kishor Soni
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Which type of work do you want to do ?
>
> Kishor Soni
>
> --- On Sat, 6/7/08, Mounesh Sutar sutar.mounesh@... wrote:
> From: Mounesh Sutar sutar.mounesh@...
> Subject: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start
> To: a...@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, June 7, 2008, 12:17 PM
Almost like my Ex-Wife, always answering a question with a question.
Big help. NOT.
I think the OP wants to learn something about the AVR core, and get
started. It is not project specific (nor does he need to be).
~~~~~~~~~~
I definitely recommend buying an STK500. Some of the very popular
chips are the ATtiny2313, Atmega8, The Atmega48,88,168.
Some people play with those Butterflys, and the Dragon. I own a
Dragon and have not used it yet but I have used the STK500 often.
I started with the STK500 with the STK505 daughterboard. My first
work with AVR was the ATtiny26. The Tiny26 has analog to digital
converter stuff, Pulse Width Modulators, timers counters, an analog
comparator (nice), ISP (program it in your circuit), pin change
interrupts, internal (or ext.) oscillator and a lot of I/O pins.
ATtiny26 is a nice part, the only unfortunate thing is you don't see
many people using it in hobby projects so you can't learn much by
studying what others have done. You'll see a lot more people using the
atmega48 and ATtiny2313 (and others). For little projectas and
getting started I like the Tiny26. It comes as a 20 pin dip for
prototyping or production work (and SMT for production stuff). The
ATmega48,88 and 168 are 28 dips ( and SMT ). The 28 pin dip is quite
a long package). I bought my ATtiny26 chips from Digikey for around
$1.57 each, qua. 25.
Goto MCSelectronics and get their evaluation version of Bascom-AVR.
Goto DIgikey and buy a few ATtiny26 and/or ATtiny2313, they are cheap
and powerful and you can program them in BASIC using Bascom-AVR.
MCSelec.com also has great Application Notes on their site which I
found helpful. The IDE from Atmel ( AVR Studio ) is a MUST have, and
the Bascom IDE is a good one also.
I am not a "C" programmer, so it is assembly language or basic for me.
If you are like me then do what I've done above. If you want " C "
Atmel provides the GCC compiler for C, and there are others, like
CodeVision AVR. There are others too.
I hope this helps.
Enjoy
M5
>
> Hi All,
>
> i need a help
>
> i am new to work with microcontrollers, will you tell me, which would be
>
> good controller to start to learn and apply the same on some small
projects.
>
> your help would appreciated.
>
> On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 5:31 PM, nandinikrishna_ n <n.nandini08@
gmail.com>
>
> wrote:
>
> > --- In avrclub@yahoogroups .com <avrclub%40yahoogro
ups.com>,
>
> > "doctor_adnan2003"
>
> > <doctor_adnan2003@ ...> wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > I am working on developing a protocol stack and i require
an easily
>
> > > available software for compiling my code and generatinh
the hex files
>
> > > actually this is my first time working on the avr recently
i used
>
> > atmel
>
> > > controllers only and i used KEIL
>
> > > can u tell about any such software for ATmega32?
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > There is code version AVR C compiler for debugging install AVR
studio.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )Re: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start - David Kelly - Jun 8 13:24:27 2008
On Jun 7, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Rick wrote:
> Almost like my Ex-Wife, always answering a question with a question.
> Big help. NOT.
>
> I think the OP wants to learn something about the AVR core, and get
> started. It is not project specific (nor does he need to be).
And therefore anything cheap and available would do such as an
ATmega168 and AVR Dragon.
The '168 is inexpensive with a good feature set. Available in DIP for
easy prototyping. The Dragon is the least expensive supported in-
circuit programmer and debugger. WinAVR combined with AVR Studio would
be the best development platform if one is using Windows.
With the abundance of choices answering such a broad question with a
question is a reasonable answer.
--
David Kelly N4HHE, d...@HiWAAY.net
========================================================================
Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )
[AVR club] Re: which is the good controller to start - Rick - Jun 9 0:23:05 2008
IT IS NEVER APPROPRIATE TO ANSWER A QUESTION WITH A QUESTION. It
wasn't necessary to do so anyway. It was quite clear to "almost"
anyone the OP wanted a general recommendation on where to start with
AVR, not help on a specific project. I was in a similar situation a
few months back myself.
Even though I too mentioned the Dragon, I stand by my recommendation
of the STK500. It has eight user programmable LEDs and eight software
readable switches directly on board. The sample AT90S8515 chip that
comes with the STK500 can be removed from it's socket and used
elsewhere, reprogrammed with user's program, or replaced entirely with
another AVR type. The STK500 can be programmed from the AVR Studio IDE
(free download) to do various blinky visual things and read push
buttons. The typical user "Hello World" blink an LED first time
program can be done with the STK500 without buying anything else.
Chapter 9 in the STK500 printed User's Guide has Application Examples.
The Dragon comes with nothing. The Dragon doesn't have a booklet or
have pushbuttons or eight user addressable LEDs. The Dragon I bought
came with no IC sockets on it and no cables at all, where as the
STK500 was covered with sockets for 8,20,28, and 40 pin device support
to program most AVR chips immediately. STK500 came with a power
supply, a printed user's guide, two 10 pin ribbon cables with male
connectors on each end, and a 6 pin ribbon so I could program my
target board immediately after getting the STK500 unpacked. The
STK500 even came with the RS232 cable needed to connect to my PC. The
Dragon came in a cute red box with a gold dragon picture on it and
nothing else ! Sure it cost a little less, but it comes incomplete if
you are new to AVR development. The STK500 has everything you need to
get started. I don't regret that I bought the STK500. If I had just
bought a Dragon, I would not have been getting started, I would have
been stuck.
Also: Is there any quality control where these Dragons are made? Mine
said it came from Sweden.
Not that all Dragons come defective, but mine did. There is a 6 pin
SMT chip on the lower left corner which was soldered askew (pins going
to the wrong pads). At first I was hoping that it was done on purpose,
but later realized it was an assembly error. I think that 6 pin part
has something to do with a switching power supply circuit for high
voltage programming. I had to carefully unsolder the SMT part with
solder wick yet in doing so, two of the six pads (lands) floated off
the substrate. There must have been improper quality control in place
where they assembled my Dragon because a test fixture would have
caught this askew chip flaw before it was shipped to Digikey, and then
to me. The PCB appears to be multilayer (having inner layers), with a
very black solder mask. I cannot see where the missing pads are to
connect, so I guess I'm stuck. $51 wasted. Good thing I have the STK500.
The ATmega168 is a great part, but why not start the guy off with
recommending a ATmega48, or '88? They are the same part with lower
cost due to smaller flash. I have some ATmega48 DIP parts from
Digikey costing $1.69 where as the ATmega168 DIP costs $2.39, if
someone is just starting out (as the OP indicated he was) he does not
need the ATmega168.
The evaluation version of BASCOM-AVR will allow upto 4K of flash,
coincidentally the ATmega48 has just that. The ATtiny26 parts I have
been playing with have 2K of flash. BASCOM-AVR is great.
I'd also recommend people look into what is going on in the AVR-USB
world. Low level USB 1.1 communications is being done with many AVR
parts directly (no USB peripheral chips needed). My ATtiny26 parts
can even do it using the internal R/C oscillator and PLL. No external
ceramic resonator, or ext. quartz crystal required. I find this amazing.
I hope this information helps those who are getting started with the
AVR. If you are "an expert" and want to chastise me, please bring
some better criticism than Kelly the Ham did. His recommendation of
the Dragon over the STK500 for a beginner starting out was bad advise.
The Dragon is not the first tool to be buying, it is incomplete, the
ATmega168 is not as good as the ATmega48 for the beginner because it
is overkill, and never answer a question with a question unless you
are disinterested in really helping someone who needs it.
--- In a...@yahoogroups.com, David Kelly
wrote:
> On Jun 7, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> > Almost like my Ex-Wife, always answering a question with a question.
> > Big help. NOT.
> >
> > I think the OP wants to learn something about the AVR core, and get
> > started. It is not project specific (nor does he need to be).
> And therefore anything cheap and available would do such as an
> ATmega168 and AVR Dragon.
>
> The '168 is inexpensive with a good feature set. Available in DIP for
> easy prototyping. The Dragon is the least expensive supported in-
> circuit programmer and debugger. WinAVR combined with AVR Studio would
> be the best development platform if one is using Windows.
>
> With the abundance of choices answering such a broad question with a
> question is a reasonable answer.
>
> --
> David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
> ========================================================================
> Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive mad.
>
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )Re: [AVR club] Re: which is the good controller to start - raj - Jun 9 8:28:10 2008
I think it was answered by my friends, Good answer!!!
Rgds/
Kundan=A0
On Mon, 09 Jun 2008 Rick wrote :
>
>IT IS NEVER APPROPRIATE TO ANSWER A QUESTION WITH A QUESTION. It
>wasn't necessary to do so anyway. It was quite clear to "almost"
>anyone the OP wanted a general recommendation on where to start with
>AVR, not help on a specific project. I was in a similar situation a
>few months back myself.
>
>Even though I too mentioned the Dragon, I stand by my recommendation
>of the STK500. It has eight user programmable LEDs and eight software
>readable switches directly on board. The sample AT90S8515 chip that
>comes with the STK500 can be removed from it's socket and used
>elsewhere, reprogrammed with user's program, or replaced entirely with
>another AVR type. The STK500 can be programmed from the AVR Studio IDE
>(free download) to do various blinky visual things and read push
>buttons. The typical user "Hello World" blink an LED first time
>program can be done with the STK500 without buying anything else.
>Chapter 9 in the STK500 printed User's Guide has Application Examples.
>The Dragon comes with nothing. The Dragon doesn't have a booklet or
>have pushbuttons or eight user addressable LEDs. The Dragon I bought
>came with no IC sockets on it and no cables at all, where as the
>STK500 was covered with sockets for 8,20,28, and 40 pin device support
>to program most AVR chips immediately. STK500 came with a power
>supply, a printed user's guide, two 10 pin ribbon cables with male
>connectors on each end, and a 6 pin ribbon so I could program my
>target board immediately after getting the STK500 unpacked. The
>STK500 even came with the RS232 cable needed to connect to my PC. The
>Dragon came in a cute red box with a gold dragon picture on it and
>nothing else ! Sure it cost a little less, but it comes incomplete if
>you are new to AVR development. The STK500 has everything you need to
>get started. I don't regret that I bought the STK500. If I had just
>bought a Dragon, I would not have been getting started, I would have
>been stuck.
>
>Also: Is there any quality control where these Dragons are made? Mine
>said it came from Sweden.
>Not that all Dragons come defective, but mine did. There is a 6 pin
>SMT chip on the lower left corner which was soldered askew (pins going
>to the wrong pads). At first I was hoping that it was done on purpose,
>but later realized it was an assembly error. I think that 6 pin part
>has something to do with a switching power supply circuit for high
>voltage programming. I had to carefully unsolder the SMT part with
>solder wick yet in doing so, two of the six pads (lands) floated off
>the substrate. There must have been improper quality control in place
>where they assembled my Dragon because a test fixture would have
>caught this askew chip flaw before it was shipped to Digikey, and then
>to me. The PCB appears to be multilayer (having inner layers), with a
>very black solder mask. I cannot see where the missing pads are to
>connect, so I guess I'm stuck. $51 wasted. Good thing I have the STK500.
>
>The ATmega168 is a great part, but why not start the guy off with
>recommending a ATmega48, or '88? They are the same part with lower
>cost due to smaller flash. I have some ATmega48 DIP parts from
>Digikey costing $1.69 where as the ATmega168 DIP costs $2.39, if
>someone is just starting out (as the OP indicated he was) he does not
>need the ATmega168.
>
>The evaluation version of BASCOM-AVR will allow upto 4K of flash,
>coincidentally the ATmega48 has just that. The ATtiny26 parts I have
>been playing with have 2K of flash. BASCOM-AVR is great.
>
>I'd also recommend people look into what is going on in the AVR-USB
>world. Low level USB 1.1 communications is being done with many AVR
>parts directly (no USB peripheral chips needed). My ATtiny26 parts
>can even do it using the internal R/C oscillator and PLL. No external
>ceramic resonator, or ext. quartz crystal required. I find this amazing.
>
>I hope this information helps those who are getting started with the
>AVR. If you are "an expert" and want to chastise me, please bring
>some better criticism than Kelly the Ham did. His recommendation of
>the Dragon over the STK500 for a beginner starting out was bad advise.
>The Dragon is not the first tool to be buying, it is incomplete, the
>ATmega168 is not as good as the ATmega48 for the beginner because it
>is overkill, and never answer a question with a question unless you
>are disinterested in really helping someone who needs it.
>--- In a...@yahoogroups.com, David Kelly
wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Jun 7, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Rick wrote:
> >
> > > Almost like my Ex-Wife, always answering a question with a question.
> > > Big help. NOT.
> > >
> > > I think the OP wants to learn something about the AVR core, and get
> > > started. It is not project specific (nor does he need to be).
> >
> >
> > And therefore anything cheap and available would do such as an
> > ATmega168 and AVR Dragon.
> >
> > The '168 is inexpensive with a good feature set. Available in DIP for
> > easy prototyping. The Dragon is the least expensive supported in-
> > circuit programmer and debugger. WinAVR combined with AVR Studio would
> > be the best development platform if one is using Windows.
> >
> > With the abundance of choices answering such a broad question with a
> > question is a reasonable answer.
> >
> > --
> > David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@...
> >

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )Re: [AVR club] which is the good controller to start - "Rick B." - Jun 10 12:31:38 2008
IT IS NEVER APPROPRIATE TO ANSWER A QUESTION WITH A
QUESTION.
It wasn't necessary to do so anyway. It was quite
clear to "almost"
anyone the OP wanted a general recommendation on where
to start with
AVR, not help on a specific project. I was in a
similar situation a
few months back myself.
I stand by my recommendation
of the STK500. It has eight user programmable LEDs and
eight software
readable switches directly on board. The sample
AT90S8515 chip that
comes with the STK500 can be removed from it's socket,
or erased in place,
reprogrammed with user's program, or replaced entirely
with
another AVR chip. The STK500 can be programmed from
the AVR Studio IDE
(free download) to do various blinky visual things and
read push
buttons. The typical user "Hello World" blink an LED
first time
program can be done with the STK500 without buying
anything else.
Chapter 9 in the STK500 printed User's Guide has
Application Examples.
The Dragon comes with nothing. The Dragon doesn't have
a booklet or
have pushbuttons or eight user addressable LEDs. The
Dragon I bought
came with no IC sockets on it and no cables at all (it
did not even come with a USB cable), where as the
STK500 was covered with sockets for 8,20,28, and 40
pin device support
to program most AVR chips immediately. STK500 came
with a power
supply, a printed user's guide, two 10 pin ribbon
cables with male
connectors on each end, and a 6 pin ribbon so I could
program my
target board immediately after getting the STK500
unpacked. The
STK500 even came with the RS232 cable needed to
connect to my PC. The
Dragon came in a cute red box with a gold dragon
picture on it and
nothing else ! Sure it cost a little less, but it
comes incomplete if
you are new to AVR development. The STK500 has
everything you need to
get started. I don't regret that I bought the STK500.
If I had just
bought a Dragon, I would not have been getting
started, I would have
been stuck. You CANNOT hit the ground running with an
AVR-Dragon.
Also: Is there any quality control where these Dragons
are made? Mine
said it came from Sweden.
Not that all Dragons come defective, but mine did.
There is a 6 pin
SMT chip on the lower left corner which was soldered
askew (pins going
to the wrong pads). I posted a photo in the photo
section of this club showing my Dragon's problem. This
was the way it came out of the cute red box when I
received it. At first I was hoping that it was done on
purpose,
but later realized it was an assembly error. I think
that 6 pin part
has something to do with a switching power supply
circuit for high
voltage programming. I had to carefully unsolder the
SMT part with
solder wick and even though I am experienced and was
careful, two of the six pads (lands) floated off
the substrate. There must have been improper quality
control in place
where they assembled my Dragon because a test fixture
would have
caught this askew chip flaw before it was shipped to
Digikey, and then
to me. The PCB appears to be multilayer (having inner
layers), with a
very black solder mask. I cannot see where the missing
pads are to
connect, so I guess I'm stuck. $51 wasted. Good thing
I also bought the STK500.
The ATmega168 is a great part, but why not start the
beginner off with
recommending a ATmega48, or '88? They are the same
parts with lower
cost due to smaller flash. I have some ATmega48 DIP
parts from
Digikey costing $1.69 where as the ATmega168 DIP costs
$2.39, if
someone is just starting out (as the OP indicated he
was) he does not
need the ATmega168.
The evaluation version of BASCOM-AVR will allow upto
4K of flash,
coincidentally the ATmega48 has just that. The
ATtiny26 parts I have
been playing with have 2K of flash. BASCOM-AVR is
great, and
BASCOM-AVR talks to my STK500 too. I can program the
.hex
files from the compiler output directly through the
STK500 without
leaving the BASCOM IDE.
I'd also recommend people look into what is going on
in the AVR-USB
world. Low level USB 1.1 communications is being done
with many AVR
parts directly (no USB peripheral chips needed). This
is a bit off topic but it is so impressive to me. My
ATtiny26 DIP parts
can even do USB using the internal R/C oscillator and
PLL. No external
ceramic resonator, or ext. quartz crystal required. I
just find this amazing.
I hope this information helps those who are getting
started with the
AVR. If you are "an expert" and want to chastise me,
please bring
some better criticism than Kelly the Ham did. His
recommendation of
the Dragon over the STK500 for a beginner was
completely bad advice.
The Dragon is not the first tool to be buying, the
Dragon is incomplete. Here is another person who
noticed this deficiency in the Dragon (link).
http://www.instructables.com/id/Help:-An-Absolute-Beginner_s-Guide-to-8-Bit-AVR-Pr/
. The
ATmega168 is not as good as the ATmega48 for the
beginner because the '168 costs much more just for the
16K flash and the beginner doesn't need the extra
flash.
If I stop my car and ask you
which way to Highway 101, don't ask me where I'm
going, just tell me the answer,
or tell me you don't know the answer because it
matters not where I'm going.
Never answer a question with a question...never.
--- David Kelly
wrote:
>
> On Jun 7, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Rick wrote:
>
> > Almost like my Ex-Wife, always answering a
> question with a question.
> > Big help. NOT.
> >
> > I think the OP wants to learn something about the
> AVR core, and get
> > started. It is not project specific (nor does he
> need to be).
> And therefore anything cheap and available would do
> such as an
> ATmega168 and AVR Dragon.
>
> The '168 is inexpensive with a good feature set.
> Available in DIP for
> easy prototyping. The Dragon is the least expensive
> supported in-
> circuit programmer and debugger. WinAVR combined
> with AVR Studio would
> be the best development platform if one is using
> Windows.
>
> With the abundance of choices answering such a broad
> question with a
> question is a reasonable answer.
>
> --
> David Kelly N4HHE, d...@HiWAAY.net
>
========================================================================
> Whom computers would destroy, they must first drive
> mad.
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )RE: [AVR club] Re: which is the good controller to start - Julian Higgison - Jun 10 12:32:28 2008
> -----Original Message-----
> From: a...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:a...@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Monday, 9 June 2008 9:24 AM
> To: a...@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AVR club] Re: which is the good controller to start
>=20
>=20
> IT IS NEVER APPROPRIATE TO ANSWER A QUESTION WITH A QUESTION.
Typing in all caps, like shouting, does not automatically make something
true.
Anyway - It's definitely appropriate to reply to a question with a question=
.
Perhaps you should look at his question as a reply to a question, as being =
a
request more info so a proper answer can be given? rather than an answer in
itself?
> Even though I too mentioned the Dragon, I stand by my recommendation
> of the STK500. It has eight user programmable LEDs and eight software
> readable switches directly on board.
I agree 100%=20
STK500 is an awesome first dev setup. It's a known good design for lots of
basic things. And lots of space to add new peripherals to play with as you
go.
I still use mine a lot for prototyping things.
But I also highly recommend a dragon for JTAG programming/debugging if fund=
s
will stretch. (with caveat that dragons are delicate things and can die if
you touch them in the wrong place while they are running, or can just plain
turn up dead) JTAG debugging is so very very handy when you get to a piece
of code that doesn't do everything you expect all the time.
> The ATmega168 is a great part, but why not start the guy off with
> recommending a ATmega48, or '88?=20
> They are the same part with lower cost due to smaller flash.
You want to learn on the 168, for the very reason that the 168 has more
room!
And because the difference in price for a few learning quantity parts is so
small compared to the cost of the rest of the learning setup.
Especially if the OP wants to program in C and use Sprintf, etc. the extra
program space comes in handy.
THEN - if designing for production, shrink down your device to match the
required program space.
> I'd also recommend people look into what is going on in the AVR-USB
> world. Low level USB 1.1 communications is being done with many AVR
> parts directly (no USB peripheral chips needed). My ATtiny26 parts
> can even do it using the internal R/C oscillator and PLL. No external
> ceramic resonator, or ext. quartz crystal required. I find this
> amazing.
>=20
Actually - that sounds really cool.
I'd love to have a bash at my own USB thing sometime.
Cheers,
Julian Higginson
Bruttour International P/L
Tel :=A0 +61 2 9987 1581
www.bruttour.com.au
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )
RE: [AVR club] Re: which is the good controller to start - "Rick B." - Jun 11 1:40:15 2008
Okay, fair enough.
If you want a really elite AVR chip for starters
similar to the ATmega168 then get a ATmega328P, it is
pin compatible with the '168, '88 and '48, but the
'328P has 32K of flash.
I have posted a photo of the defective corner of my
AVR Dragon before I tried fixing it. The photo is in
the photos section of this group.
As far as questions being used to answer questions,
that hits a nerve here because my Ex almost always did
that to me. I never liked it. She seemed to enjoy
pressing that button. Where I have been employed in
the past it was aggravating whenever a coworker would
answer a question with a question. It just doesn't
seem appropriate. Sometimes people do it as sarcasm,
other times they are just ignorant and rather than say
they don't know the answer, choosing to cover things
by returning with a question, thinking that it is an
acceptable response. It isn't when you are speaking
to me.
Can you honestly say that it is fine with you when you
ask a question and the person responds to you without
an answer but rather another question? How
aggrivating.
--- Julian Higgison
wrote:
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: a...@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:a...@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Rick
> > Sent: Monday, 9 June 2008 9:24 AM
> > To: a...@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AVR club] Re: which is the good
> controller to start
> >
> >
> > IT IS NEVER APPROPRIATE TO ANSWER A QUESTION WITH
> A QUESTION.
>
> Typing in all caps, like shouting, does not
> automatically make something
> true.
>
> Anyway - It's definitely appropriate to reply to a
> question with a question.
> Perhaps you should look at his question as a reply
> to a question, as being a
> request more info so a proper answer can be given?
> rather than an answer in
> itself?
>
> > Even though I too mentioned the Dragon, I stand by
> my recommendation
> > of the STK500. It has eight user programmable LEDs
> and eight software
> > readable switches directly on board.
>
> I agree 100%
>
> STK500 is an awesome first dev setup. It's a known
> good design for lots of
> basic things. And lots of space to add new
> peripherals to play with as you
> go.
>
> I still use mine a lot for prototyping things.
>
> But I also highly recommend a dragon for JTAG
> programming/debugging if funds
> will stretch. (with caveat that dragons are delicate
> things and can die if
> you touch them in the wrong place while they are
> running, or can just plain
> turn up dead) JTAG debugging is so very very handy
> when you get to a piece
> of code that doesn't do everything you expect all
> the time.
>
> > The ATmega168 is a great part, but why not start
> the guy off with
> > recommending a ATmega48, or '88?
> > They are the same part with lower cost due to
> smaller flash.
>
> You want to learn on the 168, for the very reason
> that the 168 has more
> room!
> And because the difference in price for a few
> learning quantity parts is so
> small compared to the cost of the rest of the
> learning setup.
>
> Especially if the OP wants to program in C and use
> Sprintf, etc. the extra
> program space comes in handy.
>
> THEN - if designing for production, shrink down your
> device to match the
> required program space.
>
> > I'd also recommend people look into what is going
> on in the AVR-USB
> > world. Low level USB 1.1 communications is being
> done with many AVR
> > parts directly (no USB peripheral chips needed).
> My ATtiny26 parts
> > can even do it using the internal R/C oscillator
> and PLL. No external
> > ceramic resonator, or ext. quartz crystal
> required. I find this
> > amazing.
> >
> Actually - that sounds really cool.
> I'd love to have a bash at my own USB thing
> sometime.
> Cheers,
> Julian Higginson
> Bruttour International P/L
> Tel : +61 2 9987 1581
> www.bruttour.com.au
------------------------------------

(You need to be a member of avrclub -- send a blank email to avrclub-subscribe@yahoogroups.com )RE: [AVR club] Re: which is the good controller to start - Zack Widup - Jun 11 2:01:08 2008
Let's stay on topic here folks and not get into any arguments. We're heer
to discuss AVR's.
Thanks.
Zack
Moderator
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008, Rick B. wrote:
>
> As far as questions being used to answer questions,
> that hits a nerve here because my Ex almost always did
> that to me. I never liked it. She seemed to enjoy
> pressing that button. Where I have been employed in
> the past it was aggravating whenever a coworker would
> answer a question with a question. It just doesn't
> seem appropriate. Sometimes people do it as sarcasm,
> other times they are just ignorant and rather than say
> they don't know the answer, choosing to cover things
> by returning with a question, thinking that it is an
> acceptable response. It isn't when you are speaking
> to me.
>
> Can you honestly say that it is fine with you when you
> ask a question and the person responds to you without
> an answer but rather another question? How
> aggrivating.
------------------------------------

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